Callejon Alley

Guanajuato is intense : its walls are bold slashes of orange and red; the sky is a huge, vivid blue. Yet the climate is so gentle that some here call it “eternal spring”. This old silver Mexican mining town is a complex layering of underground tunnel highways below glittering Spanish Colonial streets. An enchanting historical town center lays below mazes of hillside alleyways. I hadn’t really wanted to visit . I was content with our month at Playa del Carmen and the slow, sultry pace of Yucatan’s Caribbean coast .  We’d gotten into a comfortable pattern there: sleep late, walk to the popular “Quinta … Continue reading Callejon Alley

Guanajuato Day One

We arrived at Leon Airport from Playa del Carmen and took a 50 minute taxi north. In Guanajuato, the house we rented for a month was so difficult to find (no house number) our taxi drove up and down the hills for hours. We asked pedestrians along the way. The landlord’s phone number didn’t work, so no help there. Finally we had the taxi just leave us in the town center at a cafe. We contacted the landlord by email thru wifi and he sent his mother to pick us up. She got us in a mini pickup, I barely fit … Continue reading Guanajuato Day One

Visiting Beautiful Playa del Carmen on a Budget

I’d always yearned to visit the Riviera Maya in Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula. To swim in the turquoise waters of Cancun, Isla Mujeres, Cozumel and Playa del Carmen. But whenever I’d review the costs of this popular Caribbean coast, they were always much higher than our budget could handle. So instead we’d travel to Merida, Oaxaca, Puerto Vallarta, or cheaper Mexican destinations. Finally, this year, I decided to make it happen. Just by thinking outside the box, we were able to enjoy a month in the Caribbean for less money. It might not work for everyone, but maybe you’ll be able … Continue reading Visiting Beautiful Playa del Carmen on a Budget

Fun in the sun

In the Riviera Maya, for one month, February 2015: We’ve swum in the unbelievably azure sea, several times now. Loved it. Downed a few Tecate Lights. We went to the Mayan ruins at Tulum. Amazing. Been to Puerto Morelos. Relaxing. Walked the 5 blocks to the spectacular beach every day, in every weather. Mostly humid and hot. Some rainy days, too. Appreciated the exercise, anyway. But, honestly, after some time I always become less enamored, kind of “habituated” to a place. That’s probably what makes me such a vagabond, a hobo, a nomad traveler in the first place.  Just need to … Continue reading Fun in the sun


LaVidaLocal I awoke this morning to the sound of falling rain. Except that it was a burst pipe, sending a stream of water from somewhere near the roofline onto the street below. I looked out between the bars of our iron-grated window. The spontaneous waterfall didn’t appear to be causing any excitement or interest outside. People simply stepped around the growing pool of water as it rapidly filled the large gapped cracks in the sidewalk. This is Mexico. Things happen. And nobody gets too excited. Especially here in the sub-tropics. Manana, manana. Stifling my usual gringo anxiety reaction, I instead … Continue reading LaVidaLocal